Everest Base Camp Trek: 10 Days Through the Khumbu Valley

After months of grueling training, we finally arrived in Kathmandu. The city welcomed us with its familiar chaos: prayer flags fluttering against a backdrop of distant peaks, the scent of incense mixing with diesel fumes, and the energy of a gateway to the world's highest mountains. We spent our days methodically checking gear, making those crucial last-minute additions (you can never have too many spare batteries at altitude), and letting our bodies adjust to the new time zone.

This wasn't just another climb for us. Everest represents the culmination of our Seven Summits journey. Our seventh and final peak, and undoubtedly our greatest challenge yet. Every previous summit has led us here: Denali's bitter cold, Aconcagua's relentless winds, Vinson's isolation. Each mountain taught us something we'll need in the weeks ahead. We're climbing with Mountain Professionals, led by Ryan Waters, our fourth expedition together after Aconcagua, Elbrus, and Vinson.

But first, the trek. Ten days from Lukla to Everest Base Camp. What follows is a day-by-day journal of that journey.

Day 01

Kathmandu to Lukla

Surke 2,250m · Lukla 2,850m · Helicopter transfer + 600m hike

We kicked things off with a helicopter ride to Surke, then hiked up 600 meters to Lukla. Starting the trek from below the famous airport felt right, earning every meter of elevation gain. As we walked into Lukla, I couldn't help but think back to 2018 when I first did the Everest Base Camp trek. Back then, reaching base camp felt like the ultimate accomplishment, one of the hardest things I'd ever done. Now, it's merely where the real climb begins.

Kathmandu cityscape with densely packed buildings and rooftops stretching into the haze — Kathmandu from above. Our last glimpse of the capital before heading into the mountains.

Jason gazing out the helicopter window at misty Himalayan peaks during the flight to Surke — The helicopter ride from Kathmandu to Surke. A dramatic way to start the trek.

Grace smiling in the helicopter during the flight from Kathmandu to Surke — The helicopter ride from Kathmandu to Surke. A dramatic way to start the trek.

Aerial view of Himalayan foothills with terraced slopes and snow-capped peaks in the distance — The view from the helicopter as we fly toward Surke. Terraced hillsides give way to towering peaks.

The path ahead is clear: ten days to base camp, then two rotations up the mountain to acclimatize before we wait for our summit window. Our bodies feel strong, our minds focused. We're as ready as we'll ever be.

Jason standing next to the helicopter at the Surke landing zone in a red mountaineering jacket — Touching down at Surke. From here, we hike 600 meters uphill to reach Lukla.

Dense Kathmandu cityscape of layered rooftops and colorful buildings disappearing into haze

Lukla village from above, lodges and gardens nestled below the surrounding mountain ridges

Day 02

Lukla to Phakding

Lukla 2,850m · Phakding 2,620m · 7.1km

Started the morning with a quick photo walk around Lukla before setting off at 10am. The famous airport runway looked even more dramatic in the morning light, with trekkers and porters already bustling through the village streets.

Today's trek was all about discipline: slow and steady, keeping the heart rate in Zone 1 despite the excitement of finally being on the trail. It's tempting to push harder when you feel good, but at altitude, patience is everything. We stopped at Sherpa's View Point Lodge after 4.5km for a well-earned tea break. The remaining 2.6km to Phakding passed quickly, with prayer wheels spinning and suspension bridges swaying gently over the Dudh Koshi River.

Pair of yaks with wooden saddles walking through a narrow Lukla street lined with stone buildings — Yak trains are the freight system of the Khumbu. They always have right of way on the trail.

Rolled into See You Lodge in Phakding at 1:20pm, just in time for lunch. Ordered the works: chicken curry rice, vegetable soup, and vegetable egg spring rolls. To my shock, the WiFi here is blazing fast. 254 Mbps down, 91 Mbps up. That's faster than most people have at home. The Khumbu Valley has definitely upgraded its infrastructure since my last visit.

Grace standing next to a large carved mani stone with Tibetan script beside a white building — Grace next to a mani stone on the trail. These carved Buddhist stones line the entire route to Base Camp.

Trekker in a red jacket crossing a suspension bridge over the Dudh Koshi River gorge — Crossing one of many suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi River. They never stop being exhilarating.

Person sitting inside a mountain lodge with large windows overlooking the river valley below — See You Lodge in Phakding. Better WiFi than most people have at home.

A trekker beside a tall white-and-gold stupa in a stone-paved village square, dog sleeping at the base

Portrait of a Sherpa guide in a teal puffy jacket inside a wood-paneled lodge dining room

A porter in Lukla leaning against a lodge wall with stacked cardboard boxes of supplies strapped to his back

A settlement tucked into the forested Dudh Koshi valley with cloud-wrapped peaks rising above

Trekker beneath the ornate Pasang Lhamu Memorial Gate, the painted arch marking the start of the trail out of Lukla

Trekker in a red jacket walking past a massive painted mani boulder covered in white Tibetan mantras, a small bridge behind

Jason sitting on the steps of Hikers Inn Lukla in the morning sun with a sleeping dog at his feet

A pile of sleeping dogs curled against a shaded doorway on a Lukla side street

Grace crouched down petting a dog on a Lukla street with colorful prayer flags strung above the shops

A trekker in red beside massive painted mani stones with Tibetan mantras, tin-roof lodges behind under a misty sky

Day 03

Phakding to Namche Bazaar

Phakding 2,620m · Namche Bazaar 3,440m · 13.4km · 1,038m cumulative ascent

Today was one of the longest and toughest days on the entire trek to Base Camp. After breakfast, we left Phakding at 8:30am and immediately hit traffic. Not the kind you'd find in Kathmandu, but the Khumbu Valley version: a constant stream of trekkers, yak trains, and horses all sharing the narrow trail.

The trail to Namche is notorious for good reason. After crossing several suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi, including the famous Hillary Bridge, the path turns upward and doesn't relent. The final push into Namche is a relentless climb that tests both legs and lungs. Dodging yak trains added an extra element of adventure. These woolly freight carriers always have right of way, and you quickly learn to press yourself against the mountain when you hear their bells approaching.

Suspension bridge spanning a deep gorge over the Dudh Koshi River with trekkers crossing — Crossing one of many suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi. The gorge drops hundreds of meters below.

Trekker at the ornately decorated Sagarmatha National Park entrance gate with colorful Buddhist motifs — Entering Sagarmatha National Park. We're officially in Everest territory now.

Local children gathered at a trailside shop between Phakding and Namche — Local children along the trail. The path to Namche passes through small settlements full of life.

Trekker standing under a canopy of blooming cherry trees on the trail to Namche — Blooming cherry trees along the trail. Spring in the Khumbu brings unexpected color to the mountain landscape.

A young Namche boy in a blue jacket and bucket hat reaching toward a small streetside snack stand

A hillside settlement with yellow and blue lodges terraced into the steep slope, pack animals grazing below

A trekker pausing midway across a long suspension bridge strung high above a forested ravine

The Dudh Koshi River cutting through a milky channel beside a small lower-Khumbu village of red-and-blue rooftops

A black Mountain Professionals ball cap resting on a wooden bench with two trekkers and a peak in the background

Jason walking under a canopy of blooming cherry trees on the lower trail near Phakding, low stone walls lining the path

Portrait of a young Namche boy in a blue jacket and checkered bucket hat standing in front of a stone lodge

Porters and pack mules climbing a narrow stone alley between blue-windowed lodges in upper Namche

The Dudh Koshi River winding through a deep forested gorge between mountain ridges

The Dudh Koshi River carving a milky-glacial channel through a forested gorge with snow peaks above

A train of pack mules climbing the long stone steps through pine forest on the way up to Namche

A row of porter loads — duffles wrapped in tarps and tied with rope — stacked against a stone wall outside a checkpoint

A long line of trekkers crossing a high suspension bridge above the Everest Bungee station, deep forested gorge below

A dramatic rocky peak with cloud-wrapped summit rising above forested slopes, a small lodge perched on the ridge

The famous double-decker suspension bridges spanning a deep forested gorge, a yak caravan crossing the upper bridge

A crowd of trekkers and porters waiting at a checkpoint outside the green-and-white Monjo lodge

Jason in front of the ornate Sagarmatha National Park gate, painted Tibetan motifs framing the entrance

Approach to the Sagarmatha National Park welcome arch — red-roofed entry buildings tucked beside a rocky cliff face

A pack mule loaded with goods walking through the Sagarmatha National Park gate, painted snow lions perched above

A snow-capped peak rising above forested ridges with clouds wrapping the summit, viewed from the Phakding–Namche trail

A yak caravan crossing a long suspension bridge decorated with prayer flags, the riverbed of the Dudh Koshi below

Day 04

Rest Day in Namche Bazaar

Namche Bazaar 3,440m · Acclimatization day

After yesterday's grueling climb, today was all about rest and letting our bodies adjust to 3,440 meters. Started with over 8 hours of sleep at Hotel Camp de Base, where the heated blankets, flush toilet, and hot shower felt like absolute luxury this high up.

Namche continues to amaze me with how much it's developed. After a leisurely lunch in town, we took a short walk uphill to visit the Tenzing Norgay Statue and the Sherpa Museum. The climb was worth it for more than just acclimatization: we caught our first glimpse of Everest and Lhotse peering over the surrounding ridges. Seeing our objective for the first time sent a shiver down my spine that had nothing to do with the altitude.

Namche Bazaar seen from the viewpoint above town, colorful rooftops clustered in a mountain bowl at 3,440 meters — Namche Bazaar from the viewpoint above town. The town sits in a natural amphitheater at 3,440 meters, a hub of commerce and culture in the Khumbu.

Close-up of the bronze Tenzing Norgay statue from below, ice axe raised against a cloudy sky above Namche Bazaar — The Tenzing Norgay memorial above Namche. A fitting tribute to the man who stood on Everest's summit with Hillary in 1953.

The coffee scene in Namche deserves its own post. Yakbuck Coffee, started by a local Nepali woman in its third season, sources 100% arabica beans from a nearby farm at 1,100 to 1,400 meters. The quality rivals any specialty coffee shop back home.

Six trekkers standing together with Himalayan peaks and prayer flags behind at the viewpoint above Namche — The team at the viewpoint above Namche, Everest and Lhotse just visible over the ridgeline.

Colorful Sherpa Barista cafe storefront with outdoor seating on a narrow Namche Bazaar street — Sherpa Barista in Namche. Apple pie and tea at altitude — the Khumbu Valley keeps defying expectations.

A lattice-top apple pie beside espresso, latte, and lemon tea at Sherpa Barista in Namche

The Yakbuck Coffee merchandise shelf — branded paper cups, ceramic mugs, and ball caps lined up against a wooden cabinet

A smiling trekker holding up a Yakbuck Coffee mug printed NAMCHE 3440mtr against a yellow lodge wall

Jason and a friend at a Yakbuck Coffee table clinking branded mugs over a lemon-ginger drink, prayer flags strung above

Lower Namche bowl with stone-stacked lodges climbing the hillside, a small white stupa in the foreground

The Namche main square — villagers gathered around a sports court with the tall white stupa and Namche bowl rising behind

A narrow Namche alley lined with gear shops — Family Lodge sign, yellow rain jackets hanging outside

A Namche souvenir stall — handmade felt yak dolls, bells, and keychains against a red cloth backdrop

The modern tiled bathroom at Hotel Camp de Base — sink, towel, flush toilet, and shower in tan stone tile

Hotel Hill Ten multi-story lodge perched on a Namche ridge, steep cliffs and waterfalls behind

Twin-bed lodge room at Hotel Camp de Base — crisp white linens, warm wood paneling, a large window overlooking Namche

The Yakbuck Coffee owner smiling behind her counter — menu chalkboard, La Cimbali espresso machine, branded mugs on shelves

A Namche rest-day scene — laundry drying on a line, green-roofed lodge below, the colorful Namche bowl climbing the hill behind

The round green Yakbuck Coffee shop sign mounted on the colorful storefront in Namche

A young Sherpa child in a red hooded puffer jacket standing in a lodge doorway in Namche

A bowl of katsudon with a side of miso soup at a Namche restaurant

Namche Bazaar seen from above, clustered green and blue rooftops with peaks rising behind

A loaded yak train descending stone steps above Namche with the town spread out below

A Yakbuck Coffee latte on a saucer beside a slice of carrot cake — Namche 3,440m printed on the mug

Jason jumping in front of the painted Sagarmatha National Park gate on the trail out of Namche

Trekkers with packs passing a small Namche chorten on the trail up from town

A trekker in a yellow puffer looking out over the Namche bowl from a rocky viewpoint above town

Interior of a Japanese-style restaurant in Namche — wooden lattice walls and colorful noren banners

Day 05

Namche to Deboche

Namche Bazaar 3,440m · Deboche 3,735m · 576m zigzag ascent

Left Namche this morning and made our way to Deboche at a slightly higher elevation, although the path had quite an ascent along the way. The day started with a stop at the Tenzing Norgay Stupa for photos. It's impossible to pass by without pausing to pay respects to the man who stood on Everest's summit with Hillary in 1953.

The trail continues to surprise with its amenities. We stopped at High Mountain Bakery & Cafe for tea and fresh apple pie. Yes, fresh apple pie at nearly 3,500 meters. The Khumbu Valley keeps defying expectations. Lunch at Zambala Lodge by the river gave us fuel for what came next: a 576-meter zigzag ascent that had us all breathing hard. The switchbacks seemed endless, but the reward at the top was worth every labored breath.

A massive mani rock carved with white Tibetan script and topped with a single prayer flag, lodges and snow peaks behind — A mani rock above Namche — carved with mantras, crowned by a prayer flag. These sacred markers have guided travelers through the Khumbu for centuries.

Jason in a red puffy jacket standing before the Tenzing Norgay Stupa — a small mani shrine on the left and a tall white-and-gold stupa on the right under an overcast sky — At the Tenzing Norgay Stupa. A stop to pay respects to one of the first two men to stand on Everest's summit before continuing toward Deboche.

The ornate Tengboche Monastery gate with painted snow lions on either side, Grace in a red jacket standing in the courtyard — Tengboche Monastery at 3,867 meters, with Ama Dablam behind.

A trekker in a gray jacket and wide-brim hat spinning a long row of golden prayer wheels beside a white stupa — Spinning prayer wheels at the Tenzing stupa. Each rotation releases a mantra into the Khumbu wind.

We arrived at Tengboche Monastery, one of the most significant Buddhist monasteries in the region. Stepping inside, the smell of incense and butter lamps filled the air. The painted murals and golden statues create a sense of peace that contrasts sharply with the physical challenge of getting here.

A high-altitude village square with a colorful prayer wheel at the center, vendor stalls of textiles and yak bells lining the path

Porters crossing a long suspension bridge draped in colorful prayer flags through pine forest

Vegetable fried rice topped with two fried eggs on a blue-rimmed china plate — a teahouse meal at altitude

A trekker walking up to a yellow stone lodge with solar water-heating panels on the roof, pine trees and foggy peaks behind

A porter with a massive bundled load walking the wide Tengboche trail toward snow peaks ahead

Trekkers ascending stone steps past a massive painted mani boulder, prayer flags strung above

A carved mani rock topped by a striped Buddhist flag on the ridge above Namche, snow peaks behind

A snow-capped peak rising above silhouetted pine forest near Deboche under overcast skies

Group photo outside Tengboche Monastery — two trekkers and seven Nepali monks and staff holding a banner

Jason in a red jacket on the monastery steps with a young monk in maroon robes outside the Tengboche gateway

The striking exterior of Tengboche Monastery — red walls with black, white, and yellow drapes over the entrance

Jason in a red North Face jacket spinning a row of copper prayer wheels at Tengboche

Close-up of a painted snow-lion guardian statue flanking the Tengboche monastery gate — red mouth, green mane, gold bells

Day 06

Deboche to Dingboche

Deboche 3,735m · Dingboche 4,410m · Pangboche Puja

We've officially passed the halfway point to Everest Base Camp. Left Deboche this morning under crystal clear skies, with Everest and Lhotse dominating the horizon ahead. Ama Dablam showed off her perfect pyramid shape to our right, living up to her reputation as one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. Blue skies, sunshine, and visibility that stretched for miles. Days like this remind you why people fall in love with the Himalayas.

Our morning trek brought us to Pangboche Monastery, where we participated in a Puja ceremony. The monks chant prayers for safe passage, burn juniper incense, and bless both the climbers and their equipment. Prayer flags are strung, rice is thrown, and tsampa (barley flour) is smeared on faces as part of the ritual. It's a humbling reminder that for the Sherpa people, these aren't just mountains, they're sacred spaces. We're guests here, and the Puja asks the mountain gods for permission to climb.

A trekker in a gray jacket and wide-brim hat standing beside a tall white-and-gold stupa on a ridge, strings of prayer flags and a massive snow-covered mountain wall rising behind — A stupa on the trail above Deboche, snow-covered ridges towering over the valley. The landscape grows more stark as we climb.

Pangboche Monastery building with ornate prayer hall roof, yellow and red banners, and mountain ridge shrouded in clouds behind — Pangboche Monastery, where we participated in the Puja. The oldest monastery in the Khumbu, it sits at 3,985 meters looking out on Ama Dablam.

Monk in red robes holding a drumstick mid-ritual between two large ceremonial drums with a painted thangka behind — A monk beats the ceremonial drums during the Puja.

Solo trekker pausing on a rocky promontory high above the Dudh Koshi valley, river snaking through the gorge toward cloud-wrapped peaks in the distance — Pausing above the Dudh Koshi gorge on the way to Pangboche. The valley drops away for thousands of feet on either side.

Pangboche village terraced into the hillside, teal-roofed lodges clustered below waterfall-striped cliffs and snow ridges — Pangboche from above, lodges tucked into terraces below waterfall cliffs. The oldest monastery in the Khumbu sits just out of frame.

Tengboche Monastery — gold-topped temple and red roofs tucked below snow-draped peaks

Ama Dablam's distinctive pyramid summit wreathed in cloud — the mountain that defines the Dingboche valley

Snowy Himalayan peaks framed beneath strings of colorful Tibetan prayer flags on the trail

Ama Dablam rising above juniper-covered ridges under a clear blue sky

Solo trekker walking the ridge trail above Pangboche with a snow-capped peak ahead

Climber standing on a rocky overlook above the Dudh Koshi river canyon with snow peaks behind

The Dudh Koshi river winding through a deep gorge with snow peaks rising in the distance

Interior of Pangboche Monastery during the Puja — a monk in maroon robes beside a painted thangka

Snow-capped peaks rising above the pine forest on the climb out of Deboche

A trekker walking past an ornate white-and-gold stupa with Ama Dablam rising behind

Jason beneath strings of prayer flags at a hilltop stupa, Ama Dablam looming in the distance

Jason in a red North Face jacket and sunglasses standing beside a painted mani rock, snow ridges behind

A lone trekker walking the wide Pangboche trail toward Ama Dablam

Trekker in a wide-brim hat sitting on rocks giving a peace sign with Ama Dablam rising behind

A trekker in red pausing beside a tall white stupa with Ama Dablam looming to the right

A monk's hand turning the pages of a Tibetan prayer book on an ornate altar during the Puja

The turquoise Dudh Koshi rushing through a rocky gorge with Ama Dablam framed above

Ama Dablam framed between prayer flags and a painted mani stone on the ridge above Pangboche

A trekker pausing beneath a white-and-gold stupa on a Pangboche ridge, snow-streaked peaks rising behind

Grace in a red jacket on the entrance steps of Pangboche Monastery, the multi-story stone temple rising behind her

Day 07

Acclimatization in Dingboche

Dingboche 4,410m · Nangkartshang 4,584m · Climb high, sleep low

Another rest day, but "rest" is relative at 4,410 meters. Following the classic mountaineering principle of "climb high, sleep low," we hiked up Nangkartshang to reach 4,584 meters. The effort was worth every breathless step with 360-degree views that left us speechless (though the altitude might have contributed to that too). On a perfect blue sky day, we could see Everest and countless other peaks stretching to the horizon. Ama Dablam continued to steal the show from every angle.

Jason on a rocky perch above Dingboche with prayer flags strung across the valley, terraced fields and snow peaks spread below — Near the top of Nangkartshang, looking down on Dingboche's stone-walled fields. Climb high, sleep low.

Jason triumphant on a rocky perch with both arms raised, Ama Dablam's pyramid peak rising through the clouds behind — Summit of the acclimatization hike. Ama Dablam owns the sky.

Jason seated at the Dingboche Inn with two lattes on a wooden table, Tibetan portraits and a wall light behind, backpack on the bench beside him — Back at the Dingboche Inn. Two lattes, board games waiting, and hours to kill at 4,410 meters.

After earning those views and helping our bodies adapt to the thin air, we descended back to Dingboche for a more relaxed afternoon. The Dingboche Inn became our refuge, where we spent hours over coffee, pastries, and board games. And even took a hot shower. There's something surreal about playing cards and eating fresh-baked goods while surrounded by 6,000-meter peaks.

These acclimatization days are crucial but also offer a chance to slow down and appreciate where we are. Tomorrow we push higher toward Lobuche, but today was about letting our red blood cells multiply and enjoying the simple pleasures that somehow exist at this altitude.

Jason in red among stone cairns and prayer flags on the Nangkartshang ridge with Ama Dablam rising behind

Trekker alone on a snow-dusted moraine trail with stone cairns on the right, sharp peaks behind

Jason atop a ridge shrine in a red jacket, clouds roiling around snow peaks behind — the Nangkartshang viewpoint

Jason beside a colorful whitewashed stupa on the Nangkartshang ridge, Ama Dablam emerging through clouds behind

Grace on rock next to a small chorten, Ama Dablam pyramid peak rising in the distance

A trekker silhouetted on a rocky ridge above the chorten, snow peak emerging from thick cloud

Grace on a rocky perch with Ama Dablam pyramid filling the sky behind

Jason in red throwing a peace sign on a rocky summit, Cholatse's dark pyramid rising behind

Grace standing on a rocky outcrop above the Dingboche valley, a panorama of snow peaks stretching to the horizon

Elevated view of Dingboche village rooftops and stone-walled fields with the Island Peak massif rising behind

Dingboche village from above, a white stupa on the left and cloud-draped peaks behind the stone lodges

Two trekkers playing chess at a warm-lit lodge table — Buddhist portraits on the wall, wooden paneling behind

Trekker in red on a rocky perch above Dingboche valley, snow peaks of the Cholatse-Tabuche group rising behind

Trekker descending the Nangkartshang ridge above Dingboche — colorful red-roofed lodges on the valley floor below, snow peaks across the horizon

Day 08

Dingboche to Lobuche

Dingboche 4,410m · Thukla 4,620m · Lobuche 4,933m

The landscape is transforming before our eyes. As we climbed from Dingboche at 4,410 meters to Lobuche at 4,933 meters, the last traces of greenery disappeared. We're fully in the alpine zone now, surrounded by rock, ice, and the raw beauty of the high Himalayas.

We stopped for lunch at Thukla (4,620m), fueling up before the afternoon's climb. The trail from Thukla leads to one of the most sobering sections of the trek: the Everest Memorial at Chukpi Lhara. Stone cairns and plaques honor climbers and Sherpas who lost their lives on Everest and surrounding peaks. Names and dates tell stories of dreams cut short. It's a stark reminder of why we had the Puja ceremony, and why every decision in the mountains must be made with respect and caution.

Jason in a yellow-brown puffy at the Thukla Pass memorial, layered prayer flags streaming across a rocky cairn field with cloud-wrapped peaks behind — Thukla Pass memorial at 4,830m. Every trekker pauses here. The prayer flags remember climbers who didn't come home.

The Himalayan Eco Resort teahouse at Lobuche — corrugated roofs, stone walls, raw alpine hillside rising behind — Checking in at the Himalayan Eco Resort in Lobuche, 4,933 meters.

Jason posing beside the Sherpa World's Highest Bakery and Hotel Mother Earth signs at Lobuche, a tethered horse beside the stone wall — Carrot cake at the World's Highest Bakery, 4,933 meters.

Arriving in Lobuche, we checked into the Himalayan Eco Resort. Hot showers and a comfortable restaurant lounge made the thin air a bit easier to bear. Couldn't resist checking out the World's Highest Bakery next door. Ordered carrot cake because when you find fresh-baked goods at high altitude, you don't ask questions, you just eat.

Looking down from the trail on a village beside a wide braided riverbed, terraced fields and snow peaks rising behind

Layers of colorful prayer flags strung over the stone memorial cairns at Thukla Pass, cloud-filled sky behind

Two yaks — one black, one tan — walking down a high-altitude trail toward Dingboche, snow peaks rising behind

Jason on a lone boulder above Dingboche, a jagged dark Cholatse ridge looming in the clouds behind

A heaped plate of Nepali chow mein with egg on a blue-floral ceramic plate — lodge lunch fuel on rest day

Trekker in a white puffy descending a rocky trail toward a cluster of yellow-roofed lodges on the valley floor, cloud-wrapped peaks on the horizon

A slice of carrot cake glazed with caramel beside a cup of tea at the bakery in Lobuche

A signed t-shirt reading 'Bakers Make the World Smell Better' pinned to the bakery wall, covered in trekker signatures and messages from around the world

A simple lodge bedroom with green floral bedding, wood-paneled walls, and a small curtained window

The Thukla Pass memorial field — small stone chortens and faded prayer flags scattered across the ridge below snow peaks

Trekkers resting among massive boulders with mani carvings and prayer flag piles on the Thukla ridge

Grace in a white puffy beside chaotic prayer flags on the Thukla Pass, cloud-wrapped snow peaks behind

Porters and trekkers gathered at the Lobuche rest stop with duffels and packs piled around the stone lodges

Lobuche porter plaza — a trekker on a horse, rest-stop packs piled on stone walls, rocky slopes rising behind

Grace on a moody trail above a cluster of yellow lodge roofs on the valley floor, low clouds clinging to the high peaks beyond

Trekker in blue puffy on a rocky trail above the Thukla valley, Cholatse and Taboche pyramids rising behind

Three trekkers on the high alpine trail toward Lobuche — moraine, glacier streams below, snow peaks all around

Trekker beside a massive memorial boulder etched with a Christian cross and trimmed with prayer flags — a private memorial on the Thukla ridge

Two Sherpa porters in red jackets resting against an inscribed memorial stone at Chukpi Lhara, prayer flags strung above

Close-up of a heart-shaped memorial plaque tucked among stones with a smiling photo and prayer flags above — a personal Chukpi Lhara tribute

Day 09

Gorak Shep and Kala Patthar

Lobuche 4,933m · Gorak Shep 5,150m · Kala Patthar 5,545m

Trekker with a backpack walking a snow-dusted moraine toward a cluster of tin-roof lodges, Cholatse's dark pyramid and other peaks behind — arriving in Lobuche — Lobuche in the morning light, before the push toward Gorak Shep.

The day started with excellent news: drone permit approved. Before leaving Lobuche, I sent it up for some aerial shots. The entire valley was blanketed in fresh snow, transforming an already dramatic landscape into something otherworldly.

After lunch and dropping our bags at the Snowland Highest Inn, we tackled Kala Patthar for acclimatization. At 5,545 meters, this rocky outcrop offers what many consider the best views of Everest available to trekkers. The climb was brutal at this altitude, but the summit delivered on every promise. Everest dominated the skyline in a way that photos can never capture. From Kala Patthar, you see the entire Southwest Face and, tucked below it, the Khumbu Icefall we'd be climbing through in a few weeks. Nuptse, Pumori, and countless other giants surrounded us.

Trekker on a jumbled moraine with arms raised, Pumori's sharp pyramid on the left and a panorama of snow peaks spreading to the horizon — Between Lobuche and Gorak Shep. The terrain turns to moraine and the sky fills with peaks on every side.

Trekker in red on a rocky outcrop with massive snow-covered peaks rising behind — approach to Kala Patthar — The rocky ridge below the Kala Patthar summit. Every step takes deliberate effort at 5,500 meters.

Jason in a yellow-striped puffy jacket on a rocky summit, the massive Everest and Nuptse wall filling the sky behind with a turquoise meltwater pool below — The Kala Patthar view that sells the trek. Everest's summit pyramid peeks just above Nuptse's shadowed wall.

Trekker on the Kala Patthar summit with both arms raised in triumph, strings of colorful prayer flags fluttering around — Kala Patthar summit at 5,545 meters. Prayer flags snap in the wind — a reward for every labored breath on the climb up.

Yellow-puffy trekker at a prayer flag viewpoint above the Khumbu Icefall, Lhotse and Nuptse's wall rising behind

A porter with a tall woven basket crossing the high rocky moraine, a snow peak emerging from the clouds beyond

Trekkers walking a snowy moraine trail toward cloud-wrapped peaks — the alpine zone above Thukla

A red-roofed teahouse at Lobuche with prayer flags on a pole, snow peaks rising close behind

Second shot of the Kala Patthar summit celebration — arms raised, prayer flags streaming behind

Drone aerial of Gorak Shep village — colorful rooftops huddled on the snowy glacial plateau

Trekker on the jumbled Lobuche-to-Gorak Shep moraine, Pumori rising behind the glacier

Trekkers crossing the snowy moraine with cloud-wrapped peaks ahead — the approach to Gorak Shep

A trekker posing in front of Gorak Shep's tin-roof lodges, snow-streaked peaks rising behind on the high glacial flat

A trekker in a blue jacket and red cap on the rocky Kala Patthar summit, clouds billowing around the snow-pyramid peaks behind

Drone aerial of the Khumbu Glacier — a snow-streaked rock pavement curving toward jagged 6,000m peaks on the horizon

Drone view of a turquoise glacial meltwater pool at the foot of a snow-streaked rock face, clouds curling around the peak above

Jason and Grace standing on a Kala Patthar summit boulder draped in chaotic prayer flags, cloud-wrapped peaks behind

Drone close-up of a snow-clad rock face on Pumori — clouds spilling over the ridge with blue sky above

A heavily-loaded porter walking the rocky trail toward Gorak Shep, snow peaks rising sharply behind

Drone view of a snow-blanketed Cholatse / Taboche massif with tiny colorful Lobuche lodges huddled at the base

Drone aerial of the Khumbu Glacier ice and rock surface after fresh snow — corrugated patterns of moraine stretching toward Pumori

Trekker in red on a Kala Patthar boulder, the massive Nuptse-Lhotse wall and Everest summit rising behind

Day 10

Everest Base Camp and Trekker's Rock

Gorak Shep 5,150m · Everest Base Camp 5,364m

This was the day. After nine days of trekking through the Khumbu Valley, ascending from the green hills of Lukla through rhododendron forests, past ancient monasteries, across glacial moraines, and up into the thin air above 5,000 meters, we finally walked the last stretch from Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp.

The trail from Gorak Shep to Base Camp follows the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. It's a rocky, undulating path that constantly plays tricks with your sense of distance. You can see the prayer flags of Base Camp in the distance, but they never seem to get closer. At this altitude, every step requires deliberate effort. The air holds roughly half the oxygen of sea level, and your body reminds you of this fact with every breath.

Jason and Grace triumphant on the spray-painted 'EVEREST BASE CAMP 5364m' Trekker's Rock, expedition tents and the Khumbu Icefall behind — The end of the trek, the beginning of the climb. Seven years of summits have led to this moment.

And then, after what felt like both an eternity and no time at all, we were there. The sprawl of colorful tents appeared through the rocks, and we could hear the deep groaning and cracking of the Khumbu Icefall in the distance. Base Camp is not a single point on a map. It's a small city of expedition tents spread across the glacier, each team staking out their territory for the weeks ahead. With 468 foreign climbing permits issued this year, the scale of the operation is staggering.

Jason alone on the spray-painted Trekker's Rock boulder with arms raised in triumph, the 'EVEREST BASE CAMP 5364m' sign visible below, expedition tents and snow peaks behind — Arms up at Trekker's Rock, the traditional marker for Everest Base Camp.

We made our way to Trekker's Rock, the iconic boulder at the edge of Base Camp spray-painted with the words "Everest Base Camp." For trekkers, this is the finish line. For climbers, it's the starting line. Standing on that rock together, with the Khumbu Icefall towering above and Nuptse's massive wall filling the sky, the weight of the moment hit us. Seven years earlier, we had spotted Kilimanjaro from a safari lodge and made a promise to each other. Every summit since then has led to this place. This rock. This moment.

A trekker descending the rocky moraine toward yellow expedition tents at Everest Base Camp, with the snow ridges of Pumori and Nuptse rising behind — The final approach to Base Camp along the Khumbu Glacier moraine. The tents grow closer with every step.

For most trekkers, reaching this rock means turning around. The trek is complete. But for us, this was not an ending. In the weeks ahead, we would walk through the Khumbu Icefall in the dark, push through the Western Cwm, climb the Lhotse Face, and attempt the summit. The trek was the prologue. The mountain was the story. And it was just beginning.

The trek is done. The climb begins. From this point forward, Everest Base Camp becomes home for the next 35 days as we prepare for the summit push through the most dangerous terrain on Earth.

Yellow expedition tents at Everest Base Camp clustered beside a frozen meltwater pool at the base of Pumori's massive face — Base Camp sprawls across the Khumbu Glacier at the foot of Pumori. A small city at the edge of the icefall.

Jason on a massive signed boulder with arms raised, red mani-style inscriptions on the rock and a snow peak in clouds behind

Everest Base Camp Trek