Seven Summits · 7th Climbed
45 days in the Khumbu Valley. A first rotation summiting Lobuche East, a second through the Khumbu Icefall, and a 20-hour summit push to 8,849 meters. The Seven Summits, complete.
Everest was always the plan. Six mountains across six continents over seven years, each one building toward this moment. Kilimanjaro taught us what altitude feels like. Aconcagua showed us real expedition life. Elbrus gave us our first taste of technical climbing. Vinson proved we could handle isolation. Carstensz Pyramid tested our nerves on exposed rock. Denali put us through brutal cold and multi-week endurance. Every one of those summits was preparation for this: the tallest mountain on Earth.
Mount Everest sits at 8,849 meters in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas, straddling the border of Nepal and Tibet. We would attempt the South Col route from Nepal, the same route Hillary and Tenzing used in 1953. Our guide company was Mountain Professionals, led by Ryan Waters. This was our fourth expedition with Ryan. He already knew our pace, our strengths, and our limits. That familiarity mattered here more than anywhere else.
The plan was simple in concept and enormous in execution: ten days of trekking to Base Camp, two acclimatization rotations up the mountain, then a wait for the weather window before the final summit push. 45 days total. 468 foreign climbing permits had been issued for the season. Base Camp would be a small city on ice, and we would call it home for over a month.
Looking for the trek to Base Camp? Read our full story of Days 1 through 10 in the Everest Base Camp Trek blog post.
Elevation profile showing the journey from Lukla (2,850m) to the summit (8,849m) and back
A short but momentous walk from Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp. We paused at Trekker's Rock, the traditional photo spot that marks the entry to EBC. For most people, this rock represents the culmination of their journey. For us, it was where everything changed. What was once a lifelong dream in 2018 is now our launching point.
Base Camp is a temporary city built on ice. With 468 foreign climbing permits issued this season, the glacier was dotted with colorful tents, prayer flags snapping in the wind, and climbers from every corner of the globe. Mountain Professionals had set up a remarkably comfortable home: individual sleeping tents with proper mattresses, a heated dining tent, a geodesic dome hangout space, a kitchen turning out fresh meals three times a day, dedicated shower and toilet tents, and Starlink keeping us connected to the world.
Our camp sat in a strategic spot close to the start of the Khumbu Icefall and away from the noise of the larger groups. Health checks showed oxygen saturation near 90%, which is excellent for 5,364m. Ryan and his team had dialed in every detail from our previous climbs together. The rhythm of expedition life had already begun.
Our first acclimatization rotation took us away from Base Camp and up Lobuche East. This was our shakedown climb: test the gear, test the systems, test the team before committing to Everest's flanks. We trekked back down to Lobuche village, pushed up to High Camp, then started for the summit at 2 AM.
The climb to the summit was no easy warm-up. In pitch black, headlamps cutting through the cold, we navigated steep snow slopes and exposed ridges. Every piece of gear got tested: crampons biting into ice, harnesses loaded on fixed lines, down jackets battling the pre-dawn cold.
We reached the summit at 7:30 AM just as the sun painted the Himalayan giants gold. Everest's massive pyramid dominated to the north. The Khumbu Icefall was clearly visible snaking down from the Western Cwm. Makalu's black triangle pierced the sky to the east. Standing above 20,000 feet again, this time with Everest filling the horizon, made every labored breath worth it.
One of the most important moments of the expedition. The Mountain Professionals team had built a beautiful stone altar decorated with prayer flags radiating in all directions. As the morning sun hit Everest's summit, the Buddhist monk began his chant. The smell of burning juniper filled the air as offerings of tsampa, rice, and chang were made to Chomolungma, the Goddess Mother of the World.
Every piece of our climbing equipment was blessed: ice axes, crampons, harnesses, summit flags, boots. The monk touched each item with sacred scarves while chanting protection prayers. We each received a blessing, with tsampa flour dabbed on our faces and red blessing strings tied around our necks. The ceremony ended with everyone throwing tsampa into the air while shouting "Lha Gyal Lo!" (May the Gods be Victorious!).
Not many idle days at Base Camp. We headed up to Pumori High Camp at 5,628m for active acclimatization. The 3-hour climb from camp was perfect for keeping our bodies working at altitude. Looking down from Pumori, we could see the entire sprawl of Base Camp spread across the glacier like a small city. But the real showstopper was looking up the Khumbu Icefall. From that vantage point, we could trace our upcoming route through the entire frozen maze.
Then came Icefall training. Ryan had us in full gear for two days, drilling every skill we would need. Ascending and descending fixed lines with ascenders. Rappelling techniques. Clipping and unclipping carabiners quickly with thick gloves. The ladder crossings got special attention. There is no way to fully simulate crossing a 20-foot-deep crevasse on aluminum ladders, but we drilled the footwork and clipping sequences until they became automatic. When you are in the Icefall at 3 AM, exhausted and cold, muscle memory takes over.
The alarm went off at 2 AM after only 4.5 hours of sleep. By 2:30 AM we were moving through Base Camp in the dark, headlamps on, crampons crunching on ice. The Khumbu Icefall is safest in the pre-dawn cold when the ice is most stable, so these alpine starts are non-negotiable.
For 8.5 hours, we navigated a constantly shifting maze of crevasses, seracs, and ice towers. Ladder crossings that seemed straightforward in training became heart-pounding exercises when spanning bottomless blue cracks. Some crevasses required multiple ladders lashed together. Others were just narrow enough that we had to jump across. No ladder, just a running start and a leap of faith over the void.
We reached Camp 1 at 6,054m exhausted but exhilarated. The Western Cwm opened up before us, a massive glacial valley flanked by Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse. The next day, the walk from Camp 1 to Camp 2 felt almost leisurely. Just 3.5 hours through the most spectacular mountain amphitheater on Earth.
Day 27 we got our first taste of the Lhotse Face. The climb to Camp 3 at 7,038m took 5 hours of steep, relentless climbing on fixed ropes. The Face is a sheet of blue ice at 40 to 50 degree angles that seems to go on forever. Exhausting, exposed, and exactly what we would face on summit day, except higher. We tagged Camp 3 and immediately descended back to Camp 2.
Before leaving Camp 2, we cached essential gear for the summit bid. Our minus-40 sleeping bag, Thermarest, ice axe, clothes, snacks. Every ounce matters when you are moving above 20,000 feet. The descent through the Icefall took less than half the time going up. Our bodies were stronger, more efficient. We knew every ladder and anchor point by feel. Back at Base Camp, the thick air at 5,364m felt almost luxurious. Two rotations down. Summit push pending.
The hardest part of climbing Everest is not the climbing. It is the waiting. We had done everything possible to prepare: two full rotations, a Puja ceremony, multiple acclimatization hikes. Now we needed the weather window to open. Forecast models ran constantly. Weather windows on Everest are rare and precious. When it opens, you move fast. Until then, you rest, hydrate, and try not to think too much about what lies ahead.
We stayed sharp. Day 31 we hiked up to Pumori again. Day 33 we tested our oxygen masks and regulators, making sure every valve and seal was perfect. You do not want to troubleshoot your oxygen system at 26,000 feet. The days blurred together. Coffee in the morning. Weather briefings. Card games in the dome tent. Emails home. And always, the sound of the Icefall cracking and groaning in the distance.
After more than a week of watching weather models, our window finally opened. We made a strategic decision to delay our originally planned departure by a couple days to avoid the crowds. Smart mountaineering is not just about weather. It is about timing your summit bid when you can move efficiently and safely.
We left Base Camp at 1:18 AM under a canopy of stars. The Khumbu Icefall, which took us 8.5 hours during Rotation 2, fell in just over 6 hours this time. Our bodies were machines now, perfectly adapted. Every ladder crossing, every crampon placement was automatic. We reached Camp 2 at 12:21 PM. Total time: just over 11 hours.
After a rest day at Camp 2, we started the push to Camp 3 at 6:52 AM, fully committed in our down suits and carrying oxygen. Started with just 0.5 liters of flow since we did not need supplemental O2 yet, but cranked it up to 1.5 liters when we hit the bottom of the Lhotse Face. The sun turned the Face into an oven. Sweating in a down suit at 23,000 feet is a special kind of misery. But we kept moving. Arrived Camp 3 at 12:31 PM to find our tents already set up by the Sherpa team. Camp 3 at 7,038m is notorious. The entire camp sits on the 40 to 50 degree Lhotse Face. Everything slopes downward. Sleeping means constantly sliding toward the tent door.
Day 40 was the hardest day yet. Left Camp 3 just after 6 AM. The route from Camp 3 to Camp 4 is brutal: continuing up the Lhotse Face, through the Yellow Band, and over the Geneva Spur to the South Col. It took 10 grueling hours. Started on 0.5 liters of oxygen, had to increase to 2 liters after reaching Lhotse High Camp. During the final section at the Geneva Spur, we passed a body. A stark reminder of what happens when things go wrong up here.
Reached Camp 4 at 4 PM to find chaos. The South Col was getting hammered by violent winds. Tents were shredded and abandoned, their remains flapping like prayer flags. We made the hard call to delay our summit attempt by one full night. That meant an extra night in the Death Zone, burning through precious oxygen and limited food. Day 41, we spent the entire day horizontal as winds roared across the Col. At 7,907m, even lying still is exhausting. We were on oxygen 24 hours a day now, carefully managing supply. If the winds died down that night, we would go. If not, we would have to make some very difficult decisions.
We left Camp 4 at 11:44 PM on May 20 into a brutally cold and windy night. We were essentially the only team going for the summit, having found a narrow window between wind events. 2 liters of oxygen per minute. Headlamps cutting through darkness.
The climb to the Balcony was a slow, frozen slog. When we reached it at 5:53 AM, conditions were so harsh we could not even stop for a proper break. My goggles fogged and froze solid. Fingers and toes went numb. A gust caught my left cheek, leaving a frostbite mark I will carry as a summit souvenir.
Sunrise brought salvation. Above the Balcony, I added my balaclava and expedition mittens. The sun unfroze my goggles just in time. Avoiding snow blindness was pure luck. We took our first real break at 7:46 AM. First sip of water from the 1-liter bottle tucked inside my down suit. The 1.5 liters in my pack had frozen solid despite insulation.
Reached the South Summit at 10:09 AM. But the hardest part lay ahead: the summit ridge and Hillary Step. Energy reserves were empty. Every step a monumental effort. Then the winds returned with a vengeance. 30 km/hr gusts that would not let up. Visibility dropped to near zero as clouds engulfed the upper mountain.
At 1:16 PM, we finally stood on the summit. The top of the world, in a complete whiteout. No views, just wind and cloud. Our camera died after one shot. But the iPhone and Insta360 survived to document the moment.
As every mountaineer knows, getting to the top is only half the battle. Going up is optional. Coming down is mandatory. The descent was equally brutal. Heavy winds, zero visibility, pure survival mode. Reached Camp 4 at 7:59 PM to find our tent filled with snow. But none of that mattered. We had done it. 20 hours and 15 minutes round trip. The Seven Summits, complete.
We woke at 7,907 meters to a tent still half full of spindrift and bodies that had nothing left to give. Nobody lingers at the South Col. We packed slowly, clipped in, and left Camp 4 at 10:43 AM. The Lhotse Face was crowded in both directions, teams still pushing up for their own window while we worked our way down past them, one anchor at a time. It took until 3:03 PM to reach Camp 3 and 6:31 PM to reach Camp 2. That night we slept properly for the first time in days.
May 23 was the last day on the upper mountain. We left Camp 2 at 8:27 AM, passed through Camp 1 at 9:42 AM, and walked into the Khumbu Icefall for the final time. Every ladder, every serac we had come to know over two rotations, crossed once more and then left behind for good. We stepped off the glacier and into Base Camp at 2:33 PM, where the Sherpa team and the dome tent were waiting. The air at 5,364 meters felt thick enough to drink.
On May 24 a helicopter lifted off from Base Camp at 7:24 AM, touched down in Pheriche, and reached Lukla by 7:44 AM. A second flight had us in Kathmandu at 10:05 AM. Forty-five days after we set out, the Seven Summits were complete, and the quiet of a hotel room felt stranger than any camp on the mountain.
Every step from Lukla to the summit, recorded by the Garmin inReach we carried. Scrub through the days, click a stretch of the route, open the photos we took along it, or press play and watch the whole expedition unfold. Prefer words? Read the written timeline.
Track recorded on a Garmin inReach and simplified for the web; elevations come from a 30 m terrain model, so the line hugs the slope rather than our exact GPS altitude. Photos and video clips were shot on our phones along the way; clips stream from the original host.
South Col route from Nepal. Budget 45 days total (10 days trekking + 35 days climbing). Expect two acclimatization rotations before the summit push. Supplemental oxygen above Camp 3. Prior 6,000m+ experience required. We used Mountain Professionals (fourth expedition with them). Total cost is significant. This is not a decision to take lightly.
The spring season (April through May) is the primary window. Summit windows typically open in mid to late May. Autumn is possible but has shorter windows and colder temperatures. We summited May 21.
Fly into Kathmandu. From there, helicopter or small plane to Lukla. Ten days of trekking through the Khumbu Valley to Base Camp. The trek itself is one of the world's great hiking experiences.
The South Col route goes from Base Camp through the Khumbu Icefall, Western Cwm, up the Lhotse Face to Camp 3, over the Geneva Spur to Camp 4 on the South Col, then summit via the Balcony, South Summit, and Hillary Step.
You need significant high-altitude mountaineering experience. We had six prior summits over seven years. You need to be comfortable with crampons, fixed ropes, ice axes, and multi-week expedition life. Cardio fitness is paramount.
Supplemental oxygen is used above Camp 3 during the summit push, and at Camp 4 around the clock. Flow rates vary from 0.5L to 2L per minute depending on altitude and exertion. Manage your supply carefully. Running out is not an option.
We climbed with Mountain Professionals and cannot recommend them enough. Ryan Waters and his team have an exceptional track record. Having guides who already know you from previous expeditions is a significant advantage at this level.